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5 articles
2026
The ornate Theatro Municipal stands at Cinelândia beneath an overcast sky.
Place

RegionRio de Janeiro

A final walk through Rio’s unequal centre

On my final morning in Brazil, a walk through central Rio moved between civic monuments, murals, Lapa, empty office streets and visible homelessness, ending with one last view of Pão de Açúcar across the bay.

A massive rounded granite outcrop above forested ridges and distant valleys in Serra dos Órgãos.
Summit

Range Serra dos Órgãos

My 400th Ribu on Pedra do Sino

Pedra do Sino became my 400th Ribu, although the morning began with a wrong approach road rather than a celebration. Beyond the crowded Atlantic Forest trail, granite opened onto distant Rio and Guanabara Bay.

2255.2 mP 1336.3 mI 2.88 km
Green mountain ridges and low clouds seen from high on Pedra do Desengano.
Summit

Range Southern Brazilian Highlands

When the road ended before Pedra do Desengano

When the cars could go no farther, Pedra do Desengano became an 18.9 km day with 1,243 m of ascent, a steep final slab and a descent that ended with 2 km of road walking by headlamp.

1759.8 mP 1100 mI 85.93 km
Wooden Pico da Caledonia summit sign marked 2257 metres beside rock and tall grass in fog.
Summit

Range Southern Brazilian Highlands

Pico da Caledônia: a locked gate in the clouds

We wanted a short hike before a long drive, and Pico da Caledônia looked ideal until a locked gate stopped us. Two rangers appeared, opened it, and 632 damp steps later we were crossing a metal bridge between two summit bumps in the cloud.

2257.7 mP 1138 mI 14.34 km
Sugarloaf Mountain above Guanabara Bay, with Rio neighbourhoods spread across the foreground.
Summit

Range Southern Brazilian Highlands

The train to Morro do Corcovado was worth the queue

While waiting for Rob to land, Dave and I chose the Corcovado train over faster-looking minibuses. The queue probably cost us time, but the railway, the crowded summit and Rio opening in every direction made the choice worthwhile.

710 mP 165 mI 1.82 km