Pedra do Desengano: A Ribu Worth the Extra Road

We nearly abandoned Pedra do Desengano when our cars could go no farther and a late start became an even longer approach. Instead we walked the extra road, found sour wild oranges, almost stepped on a sleeping snake, crossed steep slabs and reached a Ribu summit above the Atlantic Forest.

HikeBrazil | Southern Brazilian Highlands
6 min read
Pedra do Desengano Mountain Panorama
Layered ridges and cloud bands from high on Pedra do Desengano.

Pedra do Desengano was on our route for a very specific reason: with about 1,100 metres of prominence, it qualifies as a Ribu. By the end of the day, that numerical reason felt almost secondary. The mountain rises inside Parque Estadual do Desengano, a large protected block of Atlantic Forest in northern Rio de Janeiro state, and getting to the summit turned into a much longer day than the map first suggested.

The road stopped before we did

After a long drive, we took the cars as far along the unpaved approach as seemed sensible. Eventually the road asked for more clearance, and probably more four-wheel drive, than we had. We turned around, tucked the cars into the roadside vegetation and looked at the time. Parking early had just added extra kilometres to an already late start. For a few minutes, skipping the mountain was a real option.

Then we changed, shouldered our packs and started walking.

Pasture Below the Forest
Open pasture near the beginning of the long approach.
Lower Valley View
The lower road already gave wide views across the surrounding hills.
Cow Beside the Approach Road
A cow beside the lower road on the approach.
Lone Tree on Green Slope
Open hillsides gave way to denser forest higher up.

The lower approach crossed open pasture and farm country before the road entered denser forest.

The first road section went quickly. There were already good views across the green hills, which helped compensate for the extra distance. At one point a broad, steep slab wall rose directly beside the road.

Steep Roadside Rock Slab
A broad, steep slab wall beside the road on the lower approach.

We passed what looked like a small farm or house in the forest and kept going. Not long afterwards we reached the park gate, complete with proper parking for vehicles capable of getting that far. Ours had already declined the invitation.

Clouds Through Roadside Trees
Views opened through the trees as we walked the access road.
Bamboo-Lined Road
A surprisingly good road beyond the park gate.

Beyond the gate, the road was in surprisingly good condition and the forest closed in around it.

Farther on, a viewpoint with a picnic table gave us another pause before we reached a ranger post or small park station with information panels. Desengano State Park was created in 1970 and is the oldest state conservation unit in Rio de Janeiro. INEA describes it as protecting one of the most important continuous remnants of Atlantic Forest in the northern part of the state.

More immediately useful to us was a wild orange tree growing almost exactly where we needed to leave the road. The fruit was extremely sour and extremely good. As trail markers go, it was hard to improve on.

Cloudy Forested Gorge
A break in the forest opened onto a cloud-filled gorge.
Atlantic Forest Canopy
Continuous forest covering the steep slopes below the summit.

The access road gave occasional openings into steep, cloud-filled valleys before the route disappeared into the forest.

Tall Atlantic Forest Trunks
The trail passed through tall, dense Atlantic Forest.
Exposed Tree Roots
Exposed roots at the base of a forest tree.
Red Forest Bromeliad
A bromeliad (Bromeliaceae) in the shaded Atlantic Forest.

Inside the Atlantic Forest, tall trunks, exposed roots and bromeliads (Bromeliaceae) replaced the open lower slopes.

A snake on the trail

From the orange tree, the route became a proper forest trail. It was good quality, easy to follow and much more pleasant than the uncertainty of the road approach.

At one point I nearly stepped on a fairly large snake curled up among the leaves. Three companions were already ahead of me and somehow none of them had noticed it. Either the snake had arrived after they passed or it had selected an impressively inconvenient place for a nap.

Snake Beside the Trail
The snake I almost stepped on; several companions ahead had somehow missed it.

The rest of the forest section was straightforward, with enough small details to make the long climb feel less repetitive.

Orange Shelf Fungus
Orange fungi on a damp forest trunk.
Pink Forest Flower
A pink flower beside the forest trail.
Textured Forest Leaf
A striking leaf detail beside the trail.
Shrubs Below the Slabs
Dense vegetation near the transition from forest to exposed summit slopes.

Fungi, flowers, textured leaves and dense upper-slope vegetation along the forest trail.

Slabs above the forest

Closer to the summit, the character changed. The trail reached steep open slabs where the angle finally demanded more attention. Small patches of vegetation gave occasional footholds. Nothing felt outrageous, but the steeper sections were not a place for careless steps.

Vegetated Rock Slab
Vegetation on the slab provided occasional places for careful footing.
Steep Summit Slab
One of the steeper slabs on the final approach.

The final approach crossed steep exposed slabs with vegetation growing in cracks and along their edges.

Once those sections were behind us, the remaining ground was easier. Cloud hung around the upper mountain and a few drops of rain came through, but the views kept opening in different directions.

Cloud at the Upper Slopes
Cloud moving across the upper slopes near the summit.
Cloud-Filled Mountain Valley
A cloud-filled valley seen from the upper mountain.

Low cloud moved through the valleys while the upper slopes stayed mostly open.

Red Flowers on Summit Rock
Low flowering plants colonising cracks in the summit rock.
Reddish Summit Seed Pods
Reddish fruit or seed pods among the low summit vegetation.
Rocky Ridge Through Cloud
Rocky summit terrain emerging through the cloud.

Low flowering plants, reddish fruit or seed pods and rocky ridges around the summit area.

The summit itself felt appropriately remote. Rob measured the altitude, and we spent time looking across a landscape of steep forested ridges, exposed rock and clouds drifting through the valleys. This was exactly the kind of mountain I had hoped to find on this trip, still surrounded by a park that felt largely untouched.

Peak in Afternoon Cloud
Clouds catching on one of the steep neighbouring peaks.
Cloudy Mountain Layers
Layered ridges under the afternoon cloud.
Serra do Desengano Panorama
A broad view across the surrounding Serra do Desengano.
Ridges Above the Cloud Band
A cloud band cut across the forested ridges below the summit.

Views from the upper mountain across the layered ridges of Serra do Desengano.

Clouds Rising From the Valley
Clouds moved through the valleys while the higher ridges remained visible.
Red Bromeliad Flower
A bromeliad (Bromeliaceae) with a bright red inflorescence in the high-elevation vegetation.
Bromeliad Above Mountain Ridges
A bromeliad (Bromeliaceae) above the Serra do Desengano ridges.
High-Altitude Bromeliad Rosettes
Compact bromeliad rosettes (Bromeliaceae) growing in the exposed summit vegetation.

Cloud, bromeliads and other low vegetation around the exposed upper slopes.

Out of the forest before dark

We descended the same way. The slabs required care again, but once we were back in the forest the walking became easy. By then we already knew that the day would finish after sunset. The practical target was simply to get out of the forest trail before dark.

We managed that, and in fact reached the earlier viewpoint while there was still usable light. I only needed the headlamp for roughly the final two kilometres of the unpaved road back to the cars.

Late Light Over Desengano
Late light over the ridges on the walk back.

It had been a long drive followed by a long hike, made longer by parking well before the intended start. I came to Pedra do Desengano primarily because it was a Ribu. After the extra road, the sour oranges, the sleeping snake, the slabs and the summit views, the park itself felt like an equally good reason to have come.

After the hike we drove to Santa Maria Madalena and stayed there for the night. The next morning brought another long drive, this time west towards Cruzeiro, where another cluster of summits was waiting for us.

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