Taiwan

We decided to rent a car for convenience, but, of course, it ended up parked half the time. That’s the price you pay for comfort. The roads are littered with rules, making driving a leisurely affair, with countless cameras ensuring everyone toes the line. Numerous road segments are perpetually under maintenance—likely a nod to the island’s topography. Taiwan’s landscape is dominated by steep mountains, blanketed in lush vegetation. While they stand majestic, landslides after heavy rains seem to be a common spectacle. My hunch? Those frequent maintenance stretches are either clearing up after landslides or proactively fortifying the roads against them.

We split our stay between three nights in a hotel and four nights in three huts. Each experience was unique yet equally delightful. The huts offered basic dormitory-style rooms with external toilets and dining areas. Some even provided sleeping bags and mattresses. As for the hotels, well, our first night in a 4-square-meter, windowless room was a tad unusual, but the subsequent hotels were exceptional, boasting high levels of hospitality and comfort.

The first night in Taiwan’s Lutel Hotel was a revelation – space here is a true luxury, with the entire room almost fitting into a single photo, if not for the bathroom. With a hotel floor the size of a large apartment accommodating 21 rooms, shelling out 45 EUR felt like a premium for the space you get.

Food was a good, even if we occasionally had no clue what we were eating. The rule of thumb: if it looks good and tastes good, dive in. For the hikes, we stocked up on gas, while Denise and Richard brought a stove and several packs of familiar food. Hut at the base of Yushan clearly stated that we should bring own food. In hindsight, this was overkill, assuming you’re game for local fare or instant noodle soup. Most huts offered food and were more than willing to supply hot water. As for hotels and restaurants, they served up very good meals for breakfast and dinner.

The pier and promenade were eerily empty.

The lake and its surrounding cities embody the essence of a resort.

Upon arrival, I snagged a local SIM card. Obviously, a passport was required, and they only took cash. Luckily, a cash machine was nearby, so I sorted it out without a hitch. The price was steep, shelling out close to twenty euros for a week’s worth of 10 GB data. Not terrible, but such deals are usually cheaper elsewhere. The network was reliable, offering 5G in the city (though this required a slightly pricier plan) and solid 4G+ coverage almost everywhere else. As expected, steep canyons and remote mountains had no service, but surprisingly, all the huts and summits kept me connected. Additionally, internet was available in all hotels, ensuring we were never too disconnected from the world.

Water supply pipes, not power cables, drape alongside the road, suspended above gravel, cascading down – a vital resource cleverly disguised as part of the landscape.

In the heart of Asia, you’d think cards and electronic payments would be the norm. And they are, just not for Western credit cards. They were accepted in a handful of places, but those were rare gems. More often, we had to rely on cash or navigate through some arcane online payment system, complete with lengthy registration forms, to make our purchases.

Streets

Finally, Taiwan, reiterating my opening thoughts, has left me with warm, welcoming memories. A quick glance at the map reveals another 30 P600 peaks I’ve yet to explore, including 4 impressive P1000 Ribus. There’s a strong possibility I’ll find myself returning to this island. I’m optimistic the less prominent mountains might offer a simpler permit system, if needed at all. Next up, we’re turning our attention to the Korea-Amur Area ranges.

Korea-Amur Area 2024