East China 2024

The trip’s goal was straightforward: summit two ultra-prominent island peaks, considering anything beyond that a bonus. Goal achieved, we ascended Youshan and Xueshan, bagged a few minor peaks for good measure, and, as an encore, climbed the Qixingshan ribu volcano near Taipei city. By all measures, we rocked it.

While reflecting on our achievements, it’s with a heavy heart I acknowledge, as I write this article, the already known fact of the Hualien City earthquake that struck on 3 April 2024 at 07:58. I extend my heartfelt apologies and condolences to those who lost loved ones, suffered injuries, or faced property damage. In the wake of such unforeseen tragedies, I hold onto the hope that each event teaches us something valuable, gradually rendering these disasters more preventable.

Day 1: From Island to Island

Jetting off from Jakarta to Taipei on EVA Airlines flight BR238, the 5h30 journey felt unexpectedly long, a sentiment amplified upon realizing the cities are separated by over 3800 km. Post-landing routine flowed smoothly: disembarkation, arrival forms, immigration, and baggage collection at Taipei’s airport, nestled in the Dayuan District, more than 30 km away from the heart of Taipei.

The quest for connectivity led to the only operational mobile operator kiosk in the arrival hall, where I snagged a 5G 10GB plan for the week—pricey, but the best available option. Paying turned out to be cash-only, a minor hiccup quickly resolved thanks to a nearby ATM. Next came the Uber sticker shock: 40-50 EUR for a short 6 km ride to the airport hotel, prompting a swift pivot to the regular taxi queue. Here, a pleasant surprise awaited: the fare was around 5 EUR, a moment that instantly endeared me to this country.

A hospitable welcome from Denise and Richard at the hotel preceded our venture to the nearest shopping mall for dinner, only to find it shuttered by 21:00. The only open food store wouldn’t accept Visa or MasterCard, leaving cash as the sole payment option. Thus, the night’s meal ended up being instant noodle soup back at the hotel, which I generously rated an 8 out of 10, despite the absence of chopsticks—quickly resolved with a trip to the hotel reception.

Costs, logistics…

• Taiwan Mobile 10 GB SIM Card for 1 Week: 680 TWD (~19.72 EUR).
• Regular airport taxi to Lütel Hotel: 400 TWD (~11.60 EUR).
• Pxmart supermarket noodle soup, drinks and 3 gas containers: 340 TWD (~9.86 EUR).
• Lütel Hotel: With breakfast included – 1,599 TWD (~46.37 EUR).

Day 2: Travel to Yushan Trailhead

Waking up later than usual, our morning ritual involved breakfast in the hotel’s dining area—coffee and buttered bread becoming a surprisingly comforting start. The day’s agenda called for a switch from pedestrian to driver, necessitating another taxi ride to the car rental. While close, it was just beyond a comfortable walk, especially considering the hassle of lugging our baggage around. By 11:00, we were at the rental office, where the process unfolded smoothly: paperwork ready, just a signature, a deposit, and a thorough car inspection away from hitting the road.

A pit stop at McDonald’s for lunch punctuated our journey before we tackled the 281 kilometers to the Youshan trailhead, where Dongpu Hostel awaited our arrival. Here, we’d spend the night, albeit with a peculiar caveat: no food provided. However, gas for cooking was available for purchase, potentially alongside a rental gas stove—a reminder that some elements of a hike should remain authentic.

For those preferring a softer start, the option to stay at a nearby hotel and cover the last 50 kilometers in the morning seemed viable, especially if a day hike wasn’t on the agenda. Our evening concluded with a delightful curry dinner courtesy of Denise and Richard, a taste of the UK here in the mountains. As night fell, we retired to our pink room—not a stylistic choice but a necessity, as everyone received clean pink coversheets and mattresses.

Yushan

Costs, logistics…

• Taxi from Lütel Hotel to Airport Hertz Car Rental Office: 220 TWD (~6.38 EUR). Arranged by the hotel reception.
• Hertz Car Rental for 7 Days: 14,818 TWD (~429.72 EUR).
• McDonald’s Meal: 300 TWD (~8.70 EUR).
• Blue Skies Company: All permits for Yushan and Xueshan, including 4 nights’ accommodation, breakfast, and dinner, plus all necessary permits, were organized by Blue Skies Company for a total of 1,161.62 EUR, shared between three people. This amount includes bank transfer fees of 16.44 EUR. Blue Skies Company – provided excellent service i can recomend it. Mark Christopher Roche, Email: blueskiesadventures@yahoo.com, WhatsApp: +886.982.858.316, Facebook: Blue Skies Adventures
• Dongpu Hostel Dinner: Self-prepared, with a few euros spent on a gas canister found in the first shop.
• Dongpu Hostel: Included in the package.

Day 3: Finally, We Hike

We kicked off our journey before dawn, trekking to the park entrance, breezing through registration, and hopping onto a shuttle bus to the trailhead. The day’s challenge? An 800m ascent over an 8.5 km hike toward Paiyun Lodge. This lodging was even more Spartan, yet it redeemed itself by feeding those who had the foresight to order in advance. After briefly flirting with the idea of an early evening ascent of Youshan, common sense prevailed. We stuck to the original plan, venturing out to Yushan – Xifeng and back. Post-dinner, we retreated to our dormitory rooms, ready to collapse into a well-earned sleep.

Yushan – Xifeng

Costs, logistics..

• Shuttle bus to trailhead: 100 TWD (~2.90 EUR) per person, cash only.
• Accommodation and dinner at the Paiyun Lodge: Included in the package and organized by Blue Skies Company.

Day 4: Island Highpoint Yushan – Climbed

We embarked on an early morning adventure, tackling a 600m ascent to Youshan and descending back to Paiyun Lodge for a well-deserved soup breakfast. The return journey, an 8.5 km hike back to the trailhead and shuttle bus stop, was made with urgency. We aimed to exit the park by 17:00, heeding multiple warnings about the gates closing. No desire existed among us to test this rule.

Our next leg covered roughly 100 km to the Sun Moon Lake resort, a name that seemed to promise celestial wonders. Upon arrival, we encountered a hiccup with our reservation at a notably nice hotel, complete with parking and breakfast. The complexity arose because credit cards weren’t accepted with our booking.com reservation, though a workaround was suggested: cancel and rebook with a local provider. This process, however, proved to be a half-hour saga of failed card payments, finally resolved when Denise obtained cash from a dispenser.

Nevertheless, the day concluded on a high note with a splendid dinner at a local restaurant. The menu featured Chinese delicacies like pork in black pepper and a 3-liter soup bowl. With Youshan’s summit successfully reached, our sights are now set on the Xueshan hike, anticipating yet another day of achievement.

Costs, logistics..

• Shuttle Bus from Trailhead to the Parking: 100 TWD (~2.90 EUR) per person.
• Dinner at the Restaurant “原味研究所” (Original Flavor Research Institute): 1,120 TWD (~32.48 EUR).
• Lake View Resort Internation YH hotel: 2,339 TWD (~67,83 EUR) for a room.

Day 5: From Resort to the Hut

The day kicks off with the ultimate bento box breakfast, a delightful start. The previous evening’s query about our fish preference must have been quite the spectacle, at least judging by my facial expression. The receptionist, detecting our less-than-enthusiastic response, graciously switched our order to chicken. Post-breakfast, we meander through the city for an hour, soaking in the ambiance.

By 10:30, we set off towards the Xueshan trailhead, aiming for a leisurely climb to the hut to arrive well before the 18:00 dinner bell. The journey spans a tad over 160 km, accompanied by the familiar thrill of a low fuel gauge—an adventurer’s rite of passage, isn’t it? With fuel stations seemingly sparse according to Google Maps, the sight of what appears to be a small city, Lishan, on our route sparks hope. Surely, the locals don’t trek 50 km for petrol. Our optimism pays off with the discovery of a fuel station. A brief pit stop at a 7/11 allows me to secure my ritual instant noodle fix.

We reach the Xueshan trailhead just shy of 17:00, swiftly transitioning gear and mindset for the ascent. A brisk 20-minute prep later, we’re making our way up the trail, covering a few kilometers and a 400-meter climb to the Quika Lodge. Dinner marks the end of our active day before we retire to the dormitory, ready for the rest that only a dormitory can promise—or threaten.

Xueshan

Costs, logistics..

• Food Supplies at 7/11: A few hundred TWD.
• Petrol: 874 TWD (~25.35 EUR).
• Wuling Farm Entrance Fee: 450 TWD (~13.05 EUR).
• Accommodation in Lodge and Dinner: Organized by Blue Skies Company and included in the package.

Day 6: Second and Last Island Ultra Peak – Xueshan

Waking up at the ungodly hour of 4:30 and hitting the trail by 5:00, we braced for a long day, despite the map’s optimistic prediction of just 10 km and a 1400 m ascent. Maps have a notorious track record of underestimating our endeavors. By 13:00, we found ourselves at the summit of Xueshan, basking in the victory. Richard, with energy to spare, ventured toward the North summit, while Denise and I retraced our steps to the hut, arriving just in time for dinner. Richard staggered in two hours later, a testament to the trail’s challenge.

Post-dinner, we retreated to our dormitory room, this time on the side designated for those descending the next day—a curious segregation that ensures those going up don’t mix with those coming down. It’s as if each side harbors its unique brand of anticipation and exhaustion, an unspoken rule of the hiking world.

Costs, logistics..

• Accommodation in Quika Lodge and dinner: Organized by Blue Skies Company and included in the package.
• There were no other direct costs on that day.

Day 7: Only Active Taiwan Volcano

Waking up between six and seven, we start our day with a cup of tea before taking a quick 400-meter dash down to the park gates and car park. Then, we’re off again, this time heading towards Taipei. The drive isn’t long, but it’s expected to take 3-4 hours. En route, a stop at McDonald’s allows me to indulge in a taste of the west. We find a spot in the national bank garden, enjoying our meal on the grass amid a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere, even the guards seem more at ease compared to their canine counterparts. Eventually, they too soften, allowing us to enjoy the tranquility and bird songs.

A short drive post-lunch, and we’re confronted with a parking barrier; our cards are thwarted yet again. Denise resolves the situation with cash before we exit. Our next adventure is climbing Qixingshan, along with maybe a few hundred other enthusiasts. The views are rewarding, and the bamboo trail, a unique experience.

After the hike, we check into our Yusense hotel, selected by Richard, an experienced traveler who knows just what and where to book. The place is a luxurious yet welcoming establishment, complete with a piano at the reception, and surprisingly affordable. The only downside? The restaurant is closed. Undeterred, we hop into a tiny taxi to Golden Famosa restaurant, only to be turned away by a somewhat haughty hostess claiming they’re closing in 30 minutes. Her insistence that no alternatives are available proved to be false. Just next door, Mama Kitchen welcomes us with open arms. The food and service are impeccable, making for a delightful end to our day.

Qixingshan

Costs, logistics..

• McDonald’s: 300 TWD (~8.70 EUR).
• Qixingshan parking fee: 105 TWD (~3.05 EUR).
• Mama Kitchen restaurant: 1,980 TWD (~57.42 EUR), including 200 TWD for tips. I can recomend.
• Yusense hotel: 3,548 TWD (~102,89 EUR) for a room. I can recomend.

Day 8: Lost Mangosteens

Our extended week in Taiwan is drawing to a close. We return the rental car and take advantage of the complimentary shuttle to the airport provided by the car rental company. After savoring a final coffee, we part ways for our flight to Seoul Incheon Airport in South Korea, each of us buzzing with anticipation for the new adventures that await.

Due to different pricing models and marketing strategies of airlines, our paths diverge slightly. Denise and Richard board an Asiana Airlines flight, while I catch a later flight with Taiwanese EVA Air, flight BR160. The journey is relatively short, a mere 2-hour flight, albeit with a 1-hour delay.

Upon arrival at Seoul airport, the routine of filling out immigration and customs forms, collecting my luggage, and the almost-complete message to Denise and Richard about my arrival is amusingly interrupted. A customs dog, clearly a fan of mangosteens from Java just like me, enthusiastically wags its tail next to my bags. The mutual understanding between the officer and me is immediate, highlighted by shared smiles as I hand over a pack of mangosteens. His warning about future fruit smuggling comes across more as a friendly deal than a threat.

Deciding to skip the complimentary Ocean Views Incheon hotel shuttle, I opt for a taxi instead. Just a few minutes later, I’m reunited with Denise and Richard, ready to dive into our next adventure.

Korea-Amur Area 2024

Costs, logistics..

• Taiwan Road Tolls: 264 TWD (~7.66 EUR).
• Car Rental Shuttle to Airport: Complimentary.
• Airport Snacks and Coffee: Maybe around 15 EUR for all of us.
• Taxi from Incheon Airport to Hotel: 14,000 KRW (~10.36 EUR).
• Dinner Close to Hotel at Fish Restaurant: 45,000 KRW (~33.30 EUR).
• Ocean View Incheon Hotel: 50,000 KRW (~37.00 EUR).
• EVA Air Flight Ticket: From Jakarta to Taipei, then Taipei to Seoul, priced at 3,326,000 IDR, is approximately 192.91 EUR.

The Korea-Amur Area in 2024 is our next destination, marking the beginning of another adventure. With our sights set on this intriguing region, we anticipate a journey filled with new experiences, challenges, and discoveries.

Thanks

Denise and Richard took the helm on almost all logistics for this journey, allowing me to journey with ease, dubbing it the “D&R Tour.” Their meticulous planning ensured everything ran smoothly. A heartfelt thanks to Denise for her patience, repeating trip details to me time and again, ensuring I was always in the loop. And immense gratitude towards Richard for his dedication in re-evaluating all routes, trails, accommodations, and transport options, ensuring we had the best possible experience.

The trails we explored were exceptionally well-maintained, straightforward, and safe, negating the need for a guide. However, Mark from Blue Skies became our indispensable navigator through the complex maze of rules and paperwork. Mark Christopher Roche, Email: blueskiesadventures@yahoo.com, WhatsApp: +886.982.858.316, Facebook: Blue Skies Adventures. Without his expertise, navigating these bureaucratic challenges alone would have likely led to our undoing. A huge shoutout to Mark for all his arrangements and logistics, providing us with a level of comfort and ease that was truly appreciated.