Baatar Khairkhan

From the majestic vista of Bumbag Khairkhan Uul, with its snow-capped peak beckoning, we set our sights south towards the quaint village of Tsetseg, where, in a display of unwavering tradition, we indulge in our daily ice cream fix. Post-village bliss, we hit a road that’s surprisingly decent until, of course, it decides to give up on us, leaving us stranded in a field where the tracks are more suggestions than actual paths. Our drive then takes a dramatic turn from promising to pitiful as our car decides it’s had enough, coming to a stubborn halt. Stepping out, we’re greeted by the sight of our wheels making futile attempts to escape the clutches of what appears to be a very modest mud trap. Little did we know, our car was on a mission to become one with the earth.

After a fruitless search for stones and random trash to shove under the wheels, it hits us: Avis Mongolia, in a plot twist no one saw coming, blessed us with a 2WD chariot despite our dreams of a 4WD steed, requested six months prior. Obviously, a 4WD would’ve scoffed at the mud and carried us to safety with ease.

Several hours of digging and despair later, we concoct a plan: I’ll trek back twelve kilometers to civilization for help while Rob plays in the mud, crafting a makeshift road to freedom. As fate would have it, a motorcyclist appears like a mirage, agreeing to ferry me to the village, thereby saving me from a marathon walk.

Armed with our newfound hope, we return to find Rob, who, armed with an ice axe, has valiantly moved the car dozen of meters. Upon our triumphant arrival, our rescue vehicle also gets stuck, because why not? The scene is now four men, a motorbike, and two stubborn cars, all playing in the mud, but the locals’ chill vibe is contagious, giving us a second wind.

We rally, gathering stones and grass like it’s a craft project, placing them under the wheels while Rob plays mud-spa with the tires. Despite the looming threat of déjà vu, our team, led by our Mongolian savior, miraculously frees both cars from the mud’s clutches. Instead of financial gratitude, our heroes opt for a selfie, proving that sometimes, the best currency is a shared memory! We owe them many thanks!

Post-adventure, we find a camping spot and, come morning, continue our journey to the Baatar Khairkhan trailhead, where stunning vistas greet us. The trek involves passing yurts, yaks, and eventually stopping as the path dares us to proceed further.

On the summit plateau, we recognize a few patches of snow, previously seen from our camp at Bumbag Khairkhan Uul.

Our next chapter takes us towards Altan Hohiy, but as fate would have it, the sandy terrain had other plans for us. Our journey quickly turned into a choose-your-own-adventure, with a labyrinth of car tracks guiding us through a desert maze. It was here that we discovered our secret weapon—a two-meter-long wooden stick. This unlikely hero became the key to escaping our sandy predicament. We affectionately named it our “amulet of success” and decided it earned a permanent spot in our car for future challenges.

With our newfound confidence, we reassessed our situation. Despite our initial resolve, the allure of Altan Hohiy paled in comparison to the call of Jargalant Khairkhan. After a brief moment of contemplation, we chose to redirect our adventure towards this new destination, ready to face whatever lay ahead with our trusty wooden amulet by our side.