Bumbag Khairkhan Uul

Slicing through the steppes, we aim straight for the base, but our initial pivot towards the ridge fizzles out, forcing a northwest detour in pursuit of elusive car tracks. These tracks vanish as quickly as they appear, sending us on a wild goose chase until a glimmer of hope leads us seven kilometers closer to our target via a path that could generously be described as “challenging.”

Arriving at a camel farm, it becomes blatantly obvious that these double-humped Bactrian camels won’t be guiding us up the mountain. After a bit of backtracking, we luck out with a spot of internet access. But then, as if on cue, the wind crashes our party, completely wrecking my tent and forcing me into a snug overnight stay in the car.

Our campsite is now set up

Post a speedy breakfast, Rob and I embark on our ascent, choosing the left-hand ridge. The start is idyllic, with grassy slopes and wild camels gracing us with their presence, debunking my flat-earth-camel theory. Soon, the terrain turns into a blockbuster set with giant boulders that seem to teeter just for the thrill. Despite the adrenaline, we press on.

In a less dramatic moment, I encounter a meter-long snake that decides it wants nothing to do with us. Richard, IDs it as a Pit Viper—a charmingly venomous high-altitude resident. Spotting another, larger one on the descent, I conclude it’s not just rocks and breathtaking views up here.

The views from the ridge are spectacular

After celebrating with an apple—because that’s how we roll—we begin our descent on a hopefully less boulder-infested ridge. The journey back is a mix of ‘ahh’ moments and ‘ugh’ sections, but we make it back to the car in five and a half hours, ready for another night under the stars.

A lush, green valley unfolds alongside the stream