Mozambique has only one Ultra-prominent peak, and that red dot on the map? Yep, that’s “Piercing Eye” — or at least that’s how it felt staring at it. Time to switch it to green. The 1757-meter prominence is solid on its own, but that 158 km isolation? A sweet little bonus. Our guide Cotxane mentioned the mountain holds special significance for Mozambicans. It’s said that when people die, their souls from all corners of the country make their way to Serra Namuli to wait for whatever the almighty has planned next. Apparently, even the dead get oriented — they’re buried facing the peak.
After breakfast at our accommodation in the nearest village, Gurúè, we set off toward the trailhead in Capatcha. The hotel was basic but totally fine—no WiFi, but cold beer was always available, thanks to the ever-watchful guard. The approximately 32 km of unpaved road wasn’t too bad overall, though a few rough patches definitely required high clearance. Some of the steeper sections had been reinforced with concrete.
On the way up, locals flagged down our car, and a lively discussion began between them, our driver, and Cotxane. On the way back we learned what it was all about — the locals had recently paved a short stretch of road and were worried we’d wreck it. Luckily, our driver was careful. We didn’t.
We parked near one of the homes in Capatcha, northeast of the summit. Greeted by polite kids and friendly locals, we made our way to meet the local queen. Yes — before any steps are taken uphill, there’s a process. Every climber must be blessed by her. Cotxane brought gifts, including a live chicken and some cash. The queen apologized — a villager had passed away the night before, and the blessing ceremony couldn’t be performed immediately. But she promised to do the ritual later that evening and gave us the go-ahead. Green light: on.
The hike started on a grassy track across farmland. High grass in places made it hard to see your footing, but the trail climbed gradually and was pretty easy to follow. It starts clearly, then turns grassy and tussocky before the granite slabs begin. We followed the ridge, then skirted a few small bumps. At one point we stopped at a special tree — apparently a wishing tree. I wished to get to the summit. Looked like it worked.
The fun part came next: angled granite slabs, about 30–45 degrees, mossy, and of course, zero protection. Going up wasn’t terrible — always some tufts of grass or a gap or crack to wedge your foot into. The problem would be going down. A slip could send one sliding 50, 100, or even the full 300 meters. The locals, of course, were skipping around like it was a park. This is their rabbit hunting zone, after all.
Near the end of the slab section, we hit a proper Class 4 step. Nothing wildly exposed, but it demanded some creative movement—a semi-chimney maneuver with a hanging tree trunk in one hand. The trunk, wedged into a cleft, was the local version of a climbing rope. It felt surprisingly secure, and while not exactly graceful, it did the job. Once past that, the angle eased, the granite slabs mellowed out, and the summit came into view.
The final hundred meters were a mellow walk across more granite slabs. A few minutes later, we were all at the top — time for snacks, drinks, and catching our breath. Clear skies, sweeping views in every direction, and impressive surrounding peaks made the effort worth it. Rob, as usual, pulled out his hand level to check nearby summits for any contenders.
Time to head down. I wasn’t exactly looking forward to the slab section in reverse. Going down always brings its own type of “fun.” At the hanging tree, I relied fully on its questionable support. Without it, those few steps would’ve been dodgy. Then came the mossy slab section. I tested every descent technique known to humankind: facing forward, backward, sideways, on all fours, on two legs, possibly inventing new ones along the way. Somehow, we all made it. I whispered a thank you to the magic tree on the way back.
The final walk to the queen’s house was relaxed — just a stroll through the grass. She greeted us warmly and invited us to lunch: a stew made with the same chicken from earlier. The return drive on the unpaved road went smoothly. Back at our accommodation, dinner was surprisingly good — home-cooked by the owners and served on golden plates with matching golden cuttlery. What more could a peakbagger ask for after a day on granite? Hot food, cold beer, and a place to sit that isn’t tilted at 45 degrees. Mozambique’s one and only Ultra? Done. Next, we’re heading to Malawi to take on Sapitwa Peak.
