Island highpoint, a top 100 prominence peak and one of the dozen ultra-prominent peaks starting with the letter Y, boasts over 1800km of isolation—a real monster peak for peak baggers. Here we are in Taiwan, at the Youshan trailhead, late afternoon, with reservations at the lower hut, teeming with friendly hikers eager to assist us through the maze of rules.
We park the car by the street, not far from the hut, gear loaded with crampons, ice axes, and helmets. A chat with a descending team convinces us to repack in the morning, opting only for helmets and microspikes, just in case. We obtained gas from a local shop for our gas stove, and that evening, we cooked a couple of curry packs brought by Denise and Richard from the UK. Sleeping gear is provided and looks good, but I have a habit of sleeping in my personal sleeping bag over the comfortable mattresses and warm pink coverings.
In a bold move, we tossed our permits into the post box at the snoozing police office
An early rise, a short walk to the park gates, and a series of instructions. We quietly deposit one of the many papers into the police post box to save time and avoid language barriers. Registration at the park office is straightforward, and we board the shuttle bus to the trailhead, joined by fellow hikers. After a brief ride and a slight ascent, we stand before a large stone marking the trailhead, the sun rising over the remote ridges. The well-maintained trail traverses the ridge, offering breathtaking views and occasional drop-offs to keep us on our toes.
The trail proves to be a gradual ascent, punctuated by a few switchback sections. Despite the steady climb of over 800 meters to the hut, the journey feels surprisingly effortless. Along the way, we encounter several stop stations, restrooms, and informative posters detailing the local flora, fauna, and geology—a thoughtful touch appreciated by all.
Arriving at the hut around 11 am, we find ourselves with ample time to spare. One option on the table is to tackle the ascent of Youshan today and save other activities for tomorrow. However, after a brief 20-minute break to mull it over, we ultimately decide to stick to our original plan and aim for an early morning summit tomorrow. Today’s agenda remains unchanged: a visit to the Yushan – Xifeng (West peak), just as we had initially intended. Setting off before 1 pm, we embark on the approximately 4.4 km round trip journey to the Yushan – Xifeng.
Returning to the hut just in time for dinner, our appetites are piqued by the promising spread before us. However, ordering proves to be a bit of a challenge. After several failed attempts, we finally manage to secure some bowls, making slow but steady progress. Eventually, at 17:29, plates of food are finally in our hands. One looks slightly different, leading us to suspect it might be chicken, while the other two appear to be pork. Despite some parts being more suited for experienced eaters, overall, the meal is satisfying, and we find ourselves fueled up and ready for the adventures that lie ahead.
The next morning, we rise early, fuel up, and begin our hike to the summit. The well-marked trail leads us up with switchbacks, gradually revealing stunning views as we approach the crowded summit. The summit is bustling, with a memorable moment as a local gentleman proposes to his partner amidst the scenic backdrop. After taking in the views, Denise and Rcihard opt to visit the East Summit while others head back to the hut.
In the wee hours of the morning, while many were already beginning their ascent at 2 am, we opted for a slightly later start, rising at 4:30 am to prepare for our hike. By 5 am, fueled by breakfast, we set off on the trail once more. As expected, the path remains well-marked and maintained, guiding us steadily upward with its familiar switchbacks. With the first light of dawn, we spot climbers ahead of us, nearing the summit. Despite our later start, the distance between us and them diminishes rapidly—a testament, perhaps, to the natural ebb and flow of mountain trails.
Eventually, we encounter a section that requires a little scrambling. Thankfully, all precarious spots are fortified with sturdy chains for added support, ensuring even the less experienced hikers stay on track. A hundred-meter corridor is fully covered, an extra precaution to prevent anyone from straying off the path. Before reaching the summit, we face another brief scramble, but soon enough, we find ourselves amidst the bustling crowd at the peak.
At the summit, a stone marker proudly displays the peak’s name and altitude, attracting quite a few visitors. However, the most captivating sight unfolds before us—a local gentleman, with trembling hands, produces a ring box and bends down on one knee to propose to his beloved. Though we couldn’t discern their words from afar, the palpable emotion in the air suggests that it was a deeply moving moment for all witnesses. As the couple embraces amidst cheers and applause, it’s safe to assume that the proposal was met with a resounding “yes.”
The morning unveils breathtaking views all around, with the Yushan – Xifeng (West Peak), Youshan – Beifeng (North Peak), Yushan – Dongfeng (East Peak) and Yushan – Nánfēng (South Peak) clearly visible in the crisp, clear air. It’s fortunate that we postponed the summit to today, as the vistas are undoubtedly superior. While it’s not always a given, I remain convinced that if you have the opportunity to climb in the evening, seize it rather than leaving it for tomorrow.
As Denise and Richard set off to explore the Yushan – Dongfeng, I choose to head back to the hut. The descent is smooth and uneventful, with no remarkable incidents to mention except for a delightful encounter with a deer grazing just a meter from the trail—a serene moment amidst the mountain tranquility.
Feeling a bit restless sitting on the hut bench, I decide to send a message to Denise before embarking on a walk back to the car. As I make my way down, I notice several teams ascending while a few others descend. Three hours later, I reach the trailhead and consider myself fortunate to find a shuttle bus with an available seat. After paying the fare of 100 NTW, I board the bus and within a quarter hour, we arrive at our destination.
A few hours pass before Denise and Richard finally show up. While we’re not in a rush, it’s been emphasized to us multiple times that park roads close at 17:00. With 1-2 hours of driving ahead of us to exit the park, we know we mustn’t dawdle.
Arriving at the Sun Moon Lake resort hotel, we’re pleased to find that we’ve made it in time. We even have enough time to enjoy a meal at a local restaurant. It’s been a nice day, filled with memorable events, and the highlight—conquering the island’s highpoint. Tomorrow, we set our sights on Xueshan, yet another ultra prominent mountain with a rare letter in its name—X.
