Pairing Xueshan peak with another Taiwanese giant, Yushan, feels like an unwritten rule; skipping one just seems wrong. Naturally, we planned to summit both peaks. Xueshan, also known as Snow Mountain, welcomed us with some old hard snow on the trail close to the summit. Securing permits turned out smoother than expected, despite a labyrinth of rules that could confuse even the most seasoned hiker. Navigating the bureaucratic wilderness, we emerged victorious, permits in hand. While some may opt for a marathon day-hike, we questioned, “What’s the rush?” Especially for those eager to fully appreciate its beauty. Choosing a two-night stay in the hut proved wise, blending adventure with the perfect amount of leisure. On the summit, we found a hard old snow-covered trail instead of the expected light dusting.
- Day 1 kicked off with a climb from the parking area at 2150 meters up to the lower hut at 2550 meters, a gentle introduction to our adventure.
- Day 2 pushed us further, as we ascended to the summit at 3886 meters, then made our descent back to the hut at 2550 meters, marking the day with a mix of exhilaration and exhaustion.
- Day 3 brought our journey full circle, with a descent back to the parking area at 2150 meters.
We arrive at the park gates, promptly pay the entrance fee, and drive a few more kilometers to where the road ends. This marks the moment for changing, repacking, and a brief debate on the necessity of crampons and ice axes. Given our indecision, we opt to bring them alongâbetter safe than sorry, as nobody wants to find themselves in need of crampons miles away from them. After a valuable half-hour of preparation, we start our journey on an easy, wide trail leading to the lower hut, reaching our destination just in time for dinner as dusk sets in.
Waking up at 4:30 am, we skip the offer of a prepared breakfast, opting instead for hot water. Porridge and coffee suit us just fine. By 5:00 am, we’re geared up and on the move. The trail snakes back into the forest, easy and gradual, leading us to some sort of picnic area before it takes us on a bit steeper climb to the east summit. The path gets rougher but remains manageable. Beyond the east summit, we make our way up to the 369 hut on the ridge, the route mostly traversing open grassy fields. The 369 hut is currently closed, under renovation, but a few tents are pitched nearby for those opting to sleep closer to the summitâa tempting option, perhaps.
Beyond the higher hut, we tackle steep grassy slopes in the Black Forest, where the trail then levels out, becoming gradual and easygoing. The path zigzags, straightens, and then zigzags again. Reaching the upper valley, we finally catch sight of the summit alongside its lesser companion. Sporadic patches of snow dot the trail, but we’re unfazed, having braced ourselves for a much snowier landscape.
Upon reaching the summit, we discover a marker stone adorned with writings. After a quick selfie, Richard wastes no time, rushing to use the hand level before clouds obscure our view. Rumors swirl of a nearby peak potentially surpassing our current elevation. Within moments, Richard confidently declares our perch as the highest. To cement our certainty, he decides to detour to the neighboring summit for confirmation. Denise and I opt to remain, retracing our steps back the way we came. Richard, on the other hand, embarks on a longer return journey via the North trail, a route that may add an extra hour or two to his hike.
We return to the hut just before dinner, with Richard joining us two hours later. All is well as we enjoy our meal, sipping tea before heading to sleep. The day proved incredibly challenging, with the trail seeming much longer than anticipated. Nevertheless, we climbed both ultra prominent peaks, marking our Taiwan leg of the trip a success. Tomorrow morning, after breakfast, we’ll descend a few hundred meters to the car and drive towards Qixingshan.
