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Tsetseegün Uul

hike | 2023-06-07

Rob misses his flight, thanks to Heathrow Airport’s “cutting-edge” scale and check-in system that seems to fancy adding imaginary weight to luggage. In the end, Rob’s right, and British Airways? Well, they messed up. But expecting a giant corporation to actually care is like hoping for a heatwave in the Arctic—wishful thinking at its finest.

Meanwhile, I land an unexpected extra day in Ulaanbaatar. What’s a peak-bagger to do but scout for nearby mountains? Lo and behold, a peak boasting a 648-meter prominence lies just south of the city, waiting like a hidden treasure. Digging deeper, I uncover several paths leading to its summit: a straightforward route from the north, an alternative from the west, and a third from the south. The southern route, starting at the Mañjuśrī monastery, piques my interest the most, blending spiritual history with the thrill of the climb.

Instead of the steppe, I found myself in an alpine landscape

So, I reach out to Chegi, my driver from earlier today who also took me to see the Chinggis Khan statue, to see if he’s up for a drive to the south side of Tsetseegün Uul tomorrow. He’s all in. In a moment of jest mixed with hope, I throw out an invitation for him to hike with me. To my astonishment, he’s on board, saying, “Yes, I will hike with you.” Having company for my inaugural Mongolian peak climb is unexpectedly delightful.

Trailhead and monastery slightly higher
Unexpectedly green scenery

In the morning, Chegi and I head south. The 50 km drive isn’t the issue; it’s escaping Ulaanbaatar’s clutches that proves difficult. Despite the city’s broad, straight roads, we’re ensnared in traffic jams, navigating through what seems like an endless maze of Toyotas for over an hour. Eventually, we break free and make our way to Zuunmod town, driving a bit further before pulling into a spacious parking area, ready to start our adventure.

Once we’ve slipped into our hiking gear, Chegi and I set off on our trek. Not far up the slope, we encounter the Mañjuśrī monastery, a historical gompa, which serves as a beacon of Tibetan Buddhist education and meditation. Founded in 1733, its destruction in 1937 by Mongolian communists has not diminished its allure. The site is dotted with the ruins of ancient structures, alongside a recently constructed edifice, where monks sit in tranquil contemplation, surrounded by birds in flight—a serene and poignant start to our hike.

Statue of Budha
Monks of the Mañjuśrī monastery
Old ruins
Ruins of Togchin Temple
Present day Mañjuśrī monastery building and adjacent ruins
Birds have found the monastery to be the perfect habitat

Leaving the monastery behind, we veer right up the slope, taking a shortcut to merge with the main trail. Our path is largely shaded by pine trees, offering a serene ambiance. We navigate around the occasional damp and muddy patches with ease. Nearing the summit, the dense forest transitions to wide-open fields, heralding our approach to the peak.

Various shrines around the monastery
They greet Lithuanians on the trail… just kidding, it is just a coincidence that the trail is marked in the colours of the Lithuanian flag.
Two interesting restrictions, one for hunters and one, presumably, for deer
Surprising rock formation in the forest
Chegi on the way up

Approaching the summit, I’m momentarily stumped by the ten-meter rocks at the peak, wondering how to tackle them. However, a closer look reveals they’re much more manageable from the other side. Despite this, there are still spots that demand Class 3 or Class 4 climbing skills to navigate.

I initially tackle the slightly lower west rock from its rear, climbing it with ease. Moving on to the southeast rock, I find its ascent relatively straightforward. However, it soon becomes clear that the true summit lies atop the north rock. From the front, it appears formidable. I try to find a way up from the left rear without success. Shifting my approach, I navigate to the right rear side, threading through a series of boulders. This maneuver helps me find a path to the larger rock formations, and I eventually reach the summit. While the climb isn’t overly difficult, it demands careful attention to avoid a misstep that could lead to a perilous fall.

The last half mile to the summit is open space
Chegi nears summit
Southeast view from the top
Summit (left) and views from the summit (right)
Shrines on the summit

At the summit, poles and Tibetan-style flags decorate the landscape, with a string linking the peak to a shrine below, hinting at a deep cultural and spiritual significance. From a nearby, slightly lower plateau, Chegi sends his greetings.

View from the true summit
A true summit linked to a shrine
Shrine at the below the summit
Summit marker indicates 2268 metres altitude

We take a moment to rest before beginning our descent. Lacking precise measuring tools and faced with a persistent suspicion that a peak half a mile to the southwest might match the height of the one we just climbed, we veer off course to investigate. This task is not simple; the summit’s flat terrain, obscured by forest, makes it challenging to discern the slightest elevation differences among rocks or mounds. Nonetheless, relying on the topographical map’s contours and my own judgement, I designate a stone pile as the highest point. With this decision, we confidently return to the main trail, content with our thorough exploration.

On the way down we make a detour to the lower southwest summit of Bogd Khan Uul
More shrines and yurts on the way down

The descent, shaded and gentle, leads us swiftly back to our car. This expedition marks my first successful ascent of a Mongolian P600 peak, a truly enjoyable experience. Conversations with Chegi, rich with insights into the local way of life and culture, make the time pass quickly. In the evening, a leisurely walk through Ulaanbaatar culminates in a satisfying meal at Route 22 restaurant. Today stands out as a memorable adventure, and I eagerly anticipate meeting Rob tomorrow morning. Together, we’ll set off towards Dund Sayhni Nuru, aiming to explore more of Mongolia’s southern landscapes.


Tsetseegün Uul2268 m altitude
648 m prominence
RangesMongolia Ranges - Gobi Desert Ranges
Countries/regionsMongolia - Ulan Bator
Distance7.20 km up8.10 km down
Elevation602 m gain602 m loss
Time
2h00 up
0h10 other
3h10 down
5h20 total
Trailhead1645 m altitude47.7588330, 106.9946110
RouteWe followed a well-marked forest track, navigating around a few wet patches. The trail opens up near the end, leading to the last few metres requiring class 3 or 4 scrambling. On the way down, we took a detour to explore the lower southwest summit.
DifficultiesThe final section involves navigating a few exposed steps.
LinksGPX trail
  • Mongolia Ranges 2023
  • « Genghis Khan Equestrian Statue
  • Dund Sayhni Nuru »

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TRIPS

2024
Southern Africa 2024
Mid-Atlantic Islands 2024
North America 2024
Anatolia 2024
Korea-Amur Area 2024
East China 2024
2023
Mongolia Ranges 2023
Philippines 2023
West Africa III 2023
West Africa II 2023
Iberian Peninsula 2023
West Africa 2023
Central America 2023
2022
Andes 2022
Northwest Europe 2022
Malay Archipelago III 2022
Malay Archipelago II 2022
Anatolia Mountains 2022
Iberian Peninsula 2022
Atlas Mountains 2022
North France-West Rhine Area 2022

archaeology (3) climb (157) food (2) hike (155) p30 (17) p50 (4) p100 (24) p300 (12) p600 (17) p1000 (11) p1500 (76) ribu (10) sight (46) summary (16) trig (44) ultra (76)

1 591 km walked, 121 298 m climbed

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