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Taiwan

region | 2024-03-22

First off, Taiwan leaves you with the impression that everything is meticulously organized. The locals are exceptionally friendly; catch them spotting your bewildered gaze amidst trying to decipher some rule, and they’re right there offering help. Nice touch, thanks! Due to this welcoming behavior, many hurdles were swiftly and smoothly overcome.

Transportation

We decided to rent a car for convenience, but, of course, it ended up parked half the time. That’s the price you pay for comfort. The roads are littered with rules, making driving a leisurely affair, with countless cameras ensuring everyone toes the line. Numerous road segments are perpetually under maintenance—likely a nod to the island’s topography. Taiwan’s landscape is dominated by steep mountains, blanketed in lush vegetation. While they stand majestic, landslides after heavy rains seem to be a common spectacle. My hunch? Those frequent maintenance stretches are either clearing up after landslides or proactively fortifying the roads against them.

The car rental process was impressively smooth; they anticipated our arrival and had everything prepped and ready to go, almost as if they had a crystal ball.
The taxi driver boasted an impressive array of at least five screens, yet ironically, it was my humble phone that successfully navigated us to the hotel.

Accommodation

We split our stay between three nights in a hotel and four nights in three huts. Each experience was unique yet equally delightful. The huts offered basic dormitory-style rooms with external toilets and dining areas. Some even provided sleeping bags and mattresses. As for the hotels, well, our first night in a 4-square-meter, windowless room was a tad unusual, but the subsequent hotels were exceptional, boasting high levels of hospitality and comfort.

The first night in Taiwan’s Lutel Hotel was a revelation – space here is a true luxury, with the entire room almost fitting into a single photo, if not for the bathroom. With a hotel floor the size of a large apartment accommodating 21 rooms, shelling out 45 EUR felt like a premium for the space you get.
Every respectable hotel seems to have a piano, a rule that has held true in my experiences.
Still puzzled by what kind of hotels leave tomatoes next to the TV, but it’s an unexpectedly nice touch.

Food

Food was a good, even if we occasionally had no clue what we were eating. The rule of thumb: if it looks good and tastes good, dive in. For the hikes, we stocked up on gas, while Denise and Richard brought a stove and several packs of familiar food. Hut at the base of Yushan clearly stated that we should bring own food. In hindsight, this was overkill, assuming you’re game for local fare or instant noodle soup. Most huts offered food and were more than willing to supply hot water. As for hotels and restaurants, they served up very good meals for breakfast and dinner.

Upon arriving, my culinary adventure peaked with the only late-night dining option available – instant noodles, a universal staple found in every shop, petrol station, and often at hotel receptions.
Pork, generously seasoned with black pepper, sizzles to perfection.
In typical Asian fashion, soup is served in a communal pot, meant to satisfy anywhere from 5 to 10 people, because sharing is caring, right?
The bento box breakfast was a delightful surprise at Sun Moon Lake hotel.
A kettle brimming with cold, delicious plum juice offers a refreshing surprise, a sweet and tangy treat to the senses.
Some mysterious green greens have appeared; take a guess what they could be? I’m at a loss too, adding a bit of green intrigue to our meal.
The chicken looked enticing, promising a feast for the senses with its inviting aroma and golden appearance.
The food was excellent in this place, leaving Richard and Denise showcasing empty pots as proof of a meal thoroughly enjoyed.
The revered Michelin guidebook takes center stage on the counter of Mama Kichen restaurant.
After breakfast, we took a leisurely stroll around the streets near Sun Moon Lake
The pier and promenade were eerily empty.
The lake and its surrounding cities embody the essence of a resort.
Oh, they showcase their hiking culture right on the street handrails, a literal grasp on the great outdoors.
Sakura blossom
Sakura blossoming is a big deal here too, turning the scenery into a spectacular showcase of nature’s fleeting beauty.

Communications

Upon arrival, I snagged a local SIM card. Obviously, a passport was required, and they only took cash. Luckily, a cash machine was nearby, so I sorted it out without a hitch. The price was steep, shelling out close to twenty euros for a week’s worth of 10 GB data. Not terrible, but such deals are usually cheaper elsewhere. The network was reliable, offering 5G in the city (though this required a slightly pricier plan) and solid 4G+ coverage almost everywhere else. As expected, steep canyons and remote mountains had no service, but surprisingly, all the huts and summits kept me connected. Additionally, internet was available in all hotels, ensuring we were never too disconnected from the world.

Water supply pipes, not power cables, drape alongside the road, suspended above gravel, cascading down – a vital resource cleverly disguised as part of the landscape.
Cemetery
Zigzagging roads may slow the journey, but they reward travelers with views.
Taiwanese tea, a rich blend of tradition and flavor, offers four main types: oolong, black, green, and white tea.
One of the rivers, seemingly dry at the surface, is entirely covered with plastic sheeting, under which something grows. This intriguing agricultural method stretched before our eyes for about 20 kilometers, a testament to innovation or necessity.

Money

In the heart of Asia, you’d think cards and electronic payments would be the norm. And they are, just not for Western credit cards. They were accepted in a handful of places, but those were rare gems. More often, we had to rely on cash or navigate through some arcane online payment system, complete with lengthy registration forms, to make our purchases.

A curious insect landed on our car, seemingly deciding to join us for the journey.
It seems my attempts to translate a few announcements resulted in inadvertently revealing who married whom.
Ah, well, at least the numbers align with the Western format.
Quaint small rice fields lay in front of houses.
The street view near our charming hotel.
The “highway” here might be more accurately dubbed a “high-bridge”.
Typical street
The scene evokes an “anti-Java island” vibe, reminiscent of where I was a few days ago, with motorbikes smoothly navigating in orderly lines, making use of designated stopping spots.
Streets
Without delving into details, it appears to be a house adorned with a golden statue atop its roof.
Taipei is a bustling metropolis with millions of residents calling it home.
A peculiar flying contraption catches attention at the airport.
The mirror-polished flooring at Taipei Airport creates a striking visual effect, seemingly doubling the space.

Finally, Taiwan, reiterating my opening thoughts, has left me with warm, welcoming memories. A quick glance at the map reveals another 30 P600 peaks I’ve yet to explore, including 4 impressive P1000 Ribus. There’s a strong possibility I’ll find myself returning to this island. I’m optimistic the less prominent mountains might offer a simpler permit system, if needed at all. Next up, we’re turning our attention to the Korea-Amur Area ranges.

Ikarus likely had a similar view as he soared towards the sun.
  • East China 2024
  • « Qixingshan

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TRIPS

2024
Southern Africa 2024
Mid-Atlantic Islands 2024
North America 2024
Anatolia 2024
Korea-Amur Area 2024
East China 2024
2023
Mongolia Ranges 2023
Philippines 2023
West Africa III 2023
West Africa II 2023
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West Africa 2023
Central America 2023
2022
Andes 2022
Northwest Europe 2022
Malay Archipelago III 2022
Malay Archipelago II 2022
Anatolia Mountains 2022
Iberian Peninsula 2022
Atlas Mountains 2022
North France-West Rhine Area 2022

archaeology (3) climb (157) food (2) hike (155) p30 (17) p50 (4) p100 (24) p300 (12) p600 (17) p1000 (11) p1500 (76) ribu (10) sight (46) summary (16) trig (44) ultra (76)

1 591 km walked, 121 298 m climbed

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