On December 7th, 2022, we stood atop Cerros de Pereyra in Argentina, embarking on what would become our Mongolian journey. As we descended the wind-battered slopes seeking shelter under pines from the relentless sun, a surprising Mongolian tune captured our attention. This was no ordinary music; it was Khoomei, a form of throat singing where the performer produces multiple pitches simultaneously, creating a sound as enigmatic as it is enchanting, resonating with the soul of ancient Mongol-Tuvan culture. The music was more than a mere melody; it was a call to adventure that set our hearts racing. “Imagine climbing in Mongolia!” I exclaimed, spurred on by the tune and the prospect of exploring its origins. At that moment, the desire to explore Mongolia gripped Rob and me. We were aware of only sixteen prominent peaks not yet documented by adventurers, hinting at a realm filled with the unknown and pristine landscapes waiting to be uncovered.
The idea quickly captivated Denise and Richard, who dove headfirst into planning our climbing routes and logistics. Their first hurdle was finding a car rental or tour operator, a gamble given the area’s scarcity of options. After scouring online forums and dusty guidebooks, i unearthed a climbing club willing to assist with climbs and logistics. However, in a surprising turn of events, the club eventually suggested we could take the reins and navigate the adventure independently. As winter’s chill yielded to early spring’s melted away, we finally secured a “4WD” for our adventures. Richard, armed with colored pencils and a well-worn map, meticulously sketched out most of the hiking paths. Gradually, reality dawned on me: this trip wasn’t just a dream anymore – it was happening.
Weeks before our meticulously planned departure, everything suddenly swerved off course. Richard, caught in an unfortunate accident, found himself facing weeks of recovery. Stress hung heavy in the air, with Denise bearing the brunt of it all. Yet, amidst the worry, an unexpected pause emerged. Accident messed up our whole trip plan. Flights, hotels, everything seemed like it might get cancelled. Waiting a year felt safe, but we really didn’t want to. Rob and I looked at maps again, finding new routes. Instead of the west peaks, we got excited about exploring the south, a hidden gem nobody knew about. Saying goodbye to Denise and Richard, who couldn’t come anymore, was tough. But it was the only thing to do. Maybe next year, we can all try again!
Day 1 – Travel In
This time, adventure beckoned with a well-timed and surprisingly affordable Turkish Airlines flight. Boarding started mid-morning in Vilnius, taking me on the first leg to Istanbul (TK1408). A few delicious hours later, after indulging in a overpriced kebab (a must-have travel experience, right?), I boarded the next flight (TK236) to Ulaanbaatar, setting off for 6pm. Everything flowed seamlessly, a perfect start to this exciting journey.
Day 2 – Chinggis Khan
Swapping the dusty bustle of the old Ulaanbaatar airport for the sleek lines of Chinggis Khaan International felt like stepping into the future. Opened in 2021, this modern marvel boasts a 3,600-meter runway, cutting-edge tech, and stunning architecture, symbolizing a new era for Mongolian travel. My friendly driver, Cheigi, awaited me, ready to navigate the 50-kilometer journey to my city center haven: the Grand Hill Hotel. Known for its friendly staff, comfortable rooms, and strategic location, it offered the perfect base to explore the city. Armed with fascinating tidbits from Cheigi about Mongolia and the infamous traffic jams, I reached the hotel just before 10 am, eager to make the most of my solo day. With Rob’s arrival only tomorrow, I seized the opportunity. Could Cheigi take me to the Genghis Khan Equestrian Statue, another 50-kilometer adventure east? He readily agreed, and off we went, laughter echoing through the car as we embarked on our journey towards Nalaikh and the world’s tallest equestrian statue.
Day 3 – Unexpected Opportunity
The previous day, we’d returned from the majestic Genghis Khan Equestrian Statue, the Mongolian wind dancing around us. But as we settled back into the car, a curveball awaited. Rob’s arrival, thanks to a dash of British Airways’ “thrifty-but-not-so-friendly” approach, was delayed by a day. Instead of letting the change dampen my spirits, I saw an opportunity to explore further. Tsetseegün Uul, a nearby peak, seemed to beckon me onward. With a grin, I asked Cheigi, my ever-reliable driver, if he’d be up for a spontaneous hike. And voila! My first Mongolian peak was summited, laughter and camaraderie filling the thin mountain air. Who knew unexpected detours could lead to such delightful discoveries?
Day 4 – Trip Started
Daybreak, crisp and golden, painted the Mongolian sky as I welcomed Rob at the bustling Chinggis Khaan International Airport. A warm handshake from the Avis reps sealed our fate – we were officially adventurers. But before launching into this new journey, fate had a twist in store. We’d unknowingly opted for a 2WD instead of the pricy 4WD, a revelation waiting for a week later (whole story here). But for now, ignorance was bliss, and our spirits were high. After grabbing supplies in the charming village of Zuunmod, mere kilometers from where I’d started my hike to Tsetseegün Uul the day before, we hit the road south. A ribbon of asphalt, 550 kilometers long, unfurled before us, beckoning us towards Dalanzadgad, the gateway to the majestic Gobi Desert.
Day 5 – First Ultra
Revised Paragraph with Active Voice, Sandstorm Focus, and Distance Adjustment:
A half-hundred-kilometer dash from Dalanzadgad promised Und Sayhni Nuru our first ultra peak, but fate served a dusty detour. We plunged twelve kilometers off-road, the car bouncing like an excited puppy on the gravel and small rocks. Excitement morphed into focused determination as we swapped car seats for hiking boots and charged up the mountain. Three victorious hours later, we stood triumphant on our inaugural peak, summit selfie immortalized against the vast Mongolian sky. But the Gobi had other plans. An hour into our drive towards Myangan Yamaat, the playful breeze turned treacherous. A sandstorm swallowed the landscape whole, reducing visibility to a disorienting gray blur. The paved road vanished, replaced by a sea of swirling sand. Road workers, consulted for directions to Bulgan city, offered conflicting advice, leaving us adrift in a confusing desert maze. Prudence prevailed. We retreated, retracing our steps back to the safety of the paved road, postponing our sandy rendezvous with the Gobi for a clearer day. Back in Dalanzadgad, we pitched camp northwest of the airport, the city lights twinkling like defiant stars against the storm-washed sky.
Day 6 – Peak Trio
Dusty tracks that once seemed daunting now guide us like friendly trails. Today, we’re sailing the steppe, navigating with the freedom of a boat captain on open waters. Hundreds of kilometers beckon, but with a full day, we can’t resist the lure of nameless peaks. We christen them “Peak 1156, Bulgan” and “Peak 1158, Bulgan”, marking their sandy slopes northwest of the charming town of Bulgan. Villages like Sairim Gashato and Hobo flit by as we approach Bogd. But before entering the city, we ascend Ich-Tevsh-Ula and peak rewarding us with panoramic views. As the sun dips, we pitch camp northeast of the mighty Myangan Yamaat, excitement for tomorrow’s summit attempt bubbling in our hearts.
Day 7 – Divination Shaman’s Dice
The morning sun bathed the riverbed trees in a golden glow, casting playful shadows under a vast blue sky. Everything seemed perfect for our assault on Myangan Yamaat. With spirits high, we followed the stream, and soon, a curious sight stopped us cold: a temple with a table adorned by…well, let’s just say it wasn’t your average picnic spread. Bones, scattered with an air of deliberate randomness, stared back at us. Maybe the “randomness” was a bit too deliberate, we joked, leaving the temple with a lingering sense of unease and a gnawing suspicion.
But our confidence soon crumbled like a stale pastry. The once-clear trail morphed into a labyrinth of overgrown paths, our initial excitement replaced by frustration as the path steepened into a near-impassable climb. Chalk it up to shamanic intervention, perhaps? We decided a strategic retreat was in order, consulting our map and re-evaluating our approach with newfound respect for the mountain’s mystical guardians.
A 140-kilometer detour around Myangan Yamaat’s northern side wasn’t exactly in the plan, but it led us to a new campsite, 20 kilometers southwest of the summit. Setting up camp under a star-studded sky, we felt a renewed sense of purpose, ready to tackle the mountain from a different angle tomorrow. Who knows, maybe with a proper offering to the bone-loving spirits, we’d stand a better chance this time!
Day 8 – Attempt #2, Success #1
Dawn painted the riverbed with golden light, igniting a renewed sense of purpose in our camp nestled on Myangan Yamaat’s steeper slopes. Today, the mountain seemed less imposing, offering a forgiving ascent – a stark contrast to yesterday’s humbling retreat. With each determined step, the summit drew closer, and after a challenging yet rewarding ascent of 900 vertical meters, we found ourselves standing triumphantly at the peak. The lesson was clear: perseverance prevails. Our 140-kilometer detour, looping around the north of the mountain and traversing 25 kilometers of off-road terrain from the east, had paid off in breathtaking views and a surge of accomplishment. But the adventure wasn’t over. Our next challenge awaited: Tergun Bogd, another mighty peak beckoning not far from Bogd city. However, 20 kilometers before reaching it, we veered south towards Bayanlig before shifting east again towards Bayangovi. From here, the trailhead southwest of Tergun Bogd lay roughly 30 kilometers away, but the track proved treacherous. Opting for caution, we retraced our steps and set up camp, ready to tackle the final leg tomorrow.
Day 9 – Routine
We brewed mugs of steaming tea, setting the rhythm for a day that unfolded like a well-worn map. The satisfying crunch of each step on the hike culminated in reaching Tergun Bogd’s summit, a triumphant moment etched into our memories. We savored the panoramic vista, the vastness filling our senses before we began our descent down a different ridge, our legs carrying us back to the waiting car. As we drove south along the mountain range, Bayangovi beckoned. We indulged in a well-deserved ice cream treat, the sweetness a fitting reward for our accomplishment. The day culminated in a serene haven – a sandy riverbed campsite offering solace from the persistent whispers of the wind. Sheltered within nature’s embrace, we drifted off to sleep, the day’s journey a perfect microcosm of our larger adventure: achievement, skillful navigation, and the tranquil peace of camping under the vast Mongolian sky.
Day 10 – Long Drive
Leaving the Bayangovi River’s soothing murmur behind, we set our sights north towards Jinst. The call of Bayankhongor, nestled beside the Tuin River, promised a change of pace. But before reaching its embrace, two peaks stood like sentinels on either side of the road: “Peak 2085m, Bayankhongor” and “Peak 2222m, Bayankhongor“, beckoning us with their proximity. We accepted their invitation, each summit offering breathtaking panoramas and a sense of accomplishment.
Bayankhongor, however, threw us a curveball. Finding a hotel proved surprisingly more challenging than locating a tire service, highlighting the town’s growing tourist appeal (or perhaps our questionable charm offensive). Relief washed over us like a desert breeze when a room finally materialized. Our reward? Dinner at the Mustard Seed Cafe, a delectable escape from our self-catering routine and a delightful introduction to the city’s gastronomic delights. Bayankhogor, it seemed, held more charm than just its soaring peaks and tire woes.
Day 11 – Go West
Our journey towards the majestic Hasgat Khairkhan Uul unfolded like a map dotted with diverse landscapes. Bustling Buutsagaan with its vibrant market kicked off our adventure, followed by a quick detour to summit Tariani Bogd’s views. Veering north from Altay City, we reached Taishir, renowned for its traditional wrestling tournaments. Eastward, Jrgalan nestled amidst rolling hills offered a glimpse into nomadic life. Finally, south towards the trailhead, luck struck! A secluded campsite with decent internet connectivity became our base for the upcoming ascent. Diverse landscapes, rich cultural experiences, and a touch of serendipity promised an unforgettable journey to Hasgat Khairkhan Uul.
Day 12 – Green Surprise
The morning unfolded with a quick drive and a revitalizing walk through lush green forests, a welcome change from the sandy plains we’d grown accustomed to. Clouds dotted the sky, but couldn’t diminish the stunning landscapes. Soon, we stood triumphant on the summit of Hasgat Khairkhan Uul, the reward for our climb. Descending, we drove through Jargalan and westward, drawn by the promise of more peaks. “Peak 1622 m Jargalan“, “Peak 1774m Taishir“, and “Peak 1727m Taishir” fell before our determined steps. As the sun dipped lower, we finally reached the Entum Hotel in Altay, our legs weary but spirits high after a day packed with peaks and forests. A fantastic day indeed!
Day 13 – Ice Cream
The day unfolded as a series of road stretches punctuated by delicious ice cream breaks in various villages. While the occasional misshapen scoop hinted at past power outages, the sweet treats were a welcome respite from the long drives. Heading westward from Darvi, we soon faced the challenge of a small, mud-filled river before reaching Zereg. Several attempts later, we discovered a passable ford, our seasoned peakbagger skills finally paying off. Despite a few initial detours, we eventually found the right track, leading us to the mountain’s base. Our day ended at a charming camel farm, marking the end of the road. Backtracking slightly, we pitched our tent, anticipation bubbling for the hike awaiting us at dawn.
Day 14 – Longest Hike
Bumbag Khairkhan Uul pushed our limits with its 27 km trek and 1700m ascent, making it our longest and most demanding hike of the journey. Over 12 hours of sweat and determination were rewarded with breathtaking views and a profound sense of wilderness. We encountered snakes along the way, some possibly the elusive Mongolian pit vipers known to inhabit the region. This added a thrilling element to the already remote and rugged terrain. Reaching an ultra prominent peak, regardless of the specific challenges, made the effort truly rewarding. Choosing to spend another night at the campsite proved wise – fast internet allowed us to share our status, and the spectacular views provided the perfect backdrop for quiet reflection on this incredible accomplishment.
Day 15 – Mudiest Drive
Bidding farewell to our scenic campsite after a second night, we set off towards Tsetseg, a village nestled near a bustling mining area. A refreshing scoop of ice cream in the village fueled our spirits as we navigated the flat grasslands westward. Feeling adventurous, we opted for a less-traveled route, lured by the promise of unexplored territory. This decision, however, soon landed us in a muddy predicament. For the full account of our hilarious (and slightly harrowing) mud rescue mission, I direct you to the Baatar Khairkhan report. Let’s just say, it consumed a significant portion of our day. After extricating ourselves from the mire, we continued westward, passing through Most before setting up camp under a vast, star-studded sky. Despite the detour, the day’s adventure added a unique twist to our journey, reminding us that sometimes, the most memorable experiences come from unplanned detours.
Day 16 – Easiest Hike
The meandering Khuvsgul River, a turquoise ribbon winding through the lush valley, unfolded like a scenic masterpiece as we cruised along. Fueled by Rob’s optimism and the allure of adventure, we turned off the main road and followed faint tracks towards the imposing Baatar Khairkhan massif. This mountainous region in the Khovd Province of western Mongolia, known for its rugged beauty and diverse landscapes, beckoned us with its promise of stunning vistas and challenging terrain. We pushed our car as high as it could go amidst the meadows, the air thinning and the views expanding with every meter gained. Reaching a point where further progress was impossible, we embarked on a challenging yet rewarding ascent on foot. Hours later, we stood smiling on the summit, savoring the panoramic views of the surrounding steppe and snow-capped peaks for two blissful hours. The descent was quicker, and soon we were back in the car, eager to reach Altan Hohiy, our next destination. A quick stop in the charming village of Mankhan, known for its traditional crafts and nestled amidst the Khovd Province’s rolling hills, broke the journey before we reached the bustling city of Khovd, our home for the night. The Steppe Hotel offered a comfortable haven, and as if scripted by some unseen force, our evening routine of tire maintenance unfolded – a recurring theme we were starting to find humorously familiar, a testament to the adventurous nature of our Mongolian road trip.
Day 17 – Sandiest Drive
Bidding farewell to the bustling city of Khovd, we immediately set our sights on an adventure, heading just 10 kilometers north to climb Jast peak. This impromptu climb, a thrilling detour right after leaving the urban landscape, added an exciting chapter to our journey. With Jast peak under our belt, we then ventured towards Buyant and Myangat, leaving behind paved roads for the dusty tracks that lay northeastward. The landscape unfolded like a captivating story, with wide rivers expanding into serene lake-like stretches that mirrored the vast Mongolian sky, enhancing our journey’s charm. However, the tranquility was briefly disrupted by a line of halted cars, an invisible barrier that prompted a quick reconnaissance. Deciding to press forward, we soon found ourselves battling treacherous sands, an unexpected challenge that halted our progress and forced us to rethink our route. Initially aiming to reach the base of Altan Hohiy and ascend it, the daunting path ahead and subsequent challenges led us to give up on this idea, turning back to start our drive towards Jargalant Khairkhan instead. Setting up camp near Jargalant Khairkhan, we embraced the unexpected detour, ready for whatever adventures awaited in the heart of this wild and beautiful landscape.
Day 18 – Farthest Point Reached
Jargalant Khairkhan’s summit wasn’t just a peak – it was a testament to our resilience. After a grueling seven-hour climb, we stood triumphant, marking the seventh ultra prominent peak on our journey. It was a fantastic achievement, but looking at the calendar, the stark reality struck – it was time to turn back towards Chinggis Khaan International Airport, 1600 km away.
Our homeward journey wasn’t a straight line, though. We couldn’t resist a detour to releativly small Bunchant peak, adding another notch to our climbing belt. After this brief exploration, we retraced our steps north of Mankhan, heading towards Zereg and then Darvi. Familiar sights greeted us as we returned to the Entum Hotel in Altai – a welcome respite and a comforting landmark on our journey. This time, however, our schedule allowed for more than just tire fixes and oil checks. We explored the nearby Shuteenii Onderlog hill, adding a serene touch to the day’s conclusion. As we settled in, the bittersweet realization dawned – our Mongolian adventure was nearing its end, but the memories made and the lessons learned would stay with us forever.
Day 19 – Altai city and short hike
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Day 20 – Among Tourists
Leaving the comforting familiarity of Altai behind, we steered north towards Taishir, a name now etched in our memory. A sharp northeast turn led us towards Otgon, the gateway to the mighty Otgon Tenger Uul. The once quiet roads were now arteries pulsing with life, a bustling scene of cars and the occasional yurt village transformed into a temporary hotel. It was clear we weren’t alone – dozens of other adventurers shared our draw to this majestic peak. The reason was evident: the landscape, a masterpiece of nature, unfolded along a sparkling river, culminating in temples nestled at the mountain’s base. This scenic marvel, a magnet for souls seeking beauty and challenge, was about to become our next playground.
Day 21 – Impresive Peak
The day broke crisp and clear, beckoning us to rise early. With a spring in our step and anticipation buzzing in our veins, we embarked on the hike to Otgon Tenger Uul’s summit. Just a few hours later, the world stretched out beneath us, a breathtaking tapestry of mountains, valleys, and rivers. Reaching the peak, our eighth of this incredible journey, felt like a crowning achievement, far exceeding our initial goals.
Our descent from Otgon Tenger Uul marked the gradual return towards Ulaanbaatar, but not before we squeezed in one last playful adventure. We couldn’t resist steering our car almost to the summit of “Peak 2366m, Buyant” – a celebratory climb before closing the curtain on our Mongolian expedition. Back in Otgon, a well-deserved ice cream ritual awaited, the creamy sweetness a perfect coda to our day’s exploration. Finally, we set up camp just south of Otgon Sum, beside a serene river. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the landscape in long shadows, we reflected on our journey. We had scaled peaks, both literal and metaphorical, pushing our limits and creating memories that would be long lasting.
Day 22 – Urban Storm
Our eastward road adventure continued, tracing a path from the wrestling town of Bayanbulag through the historic Khureemaral and over to the familiar Buutsagaan, gateway to the breathtaking Ikh Gazaryn Chuluu Nature Reserve. Roughly halfway back to Ulaanbaatar, a sudden storm materialized, unleashing its fury with lightning and howling winds. Visibility plummeted, forcing us to consider stopping. However, adrenaline kicked in, and we pushed ahead, outrunning the storm’s fury. Bombogor, home to the stunning Ölgii River valley and ancient petroglyphs, blurred past a few kilometers away, followed by the familiar sight of Bayan-Ölgii, a vibrant city nestled amidst the Altai Mountains and known for its Kazakh cultural influences.
Some time after successfully outrunning the storm, we were pleasantly surprised to discover the Monument to the Famous Mongolian Horses. This unexpected stop halfway back to Ulaanbaatar provided a fascinating glimpse into Mongolia’s deep-rooted connection to these majestic creatures, leaving a lasting impression on us. Onward we pressed, navigating through Nariinteel, famed for its hot springs, and Arvaikheer, the capital of Övörkhangai province renowned for its diverse landscapes and historical sites. Finally, after passing through Rashaant, a center for traditional Mongolian medicine, Erdensant, known for its Buddhist monasteries, and Lun, we rolled into Ulaanbaatar, marking the triumphant conclusion of our journey.
Day 23 – Cleaning Up and Winding Down in Mongolia
While I savored a restful morning, Rob was off to tackle Tsetseegün Uul, a peak I had already summited a few weeks earlier. The afternoon found us engaged in the less adventurous but essential task of cleaning our car. This seemingly mundane activity became a vivid reminder of our journey through Mongolia’s dusty terrains, each splatter and streak a testament to the miles we’d covered. Returning the car to Avis, we faced an unexpectedly meticulous inspection. Little did we know then that our quite big deposit would embark on a three-month-long odyssey of its own. A few months later, we learned that our deposit was still “depositing” in the metaphorical sense – the travel gods sure have a sense of humor! Despite this unexpected hurdle, the day concluded on a high note at Route 22 Restaurant & Wine Lounge, the same place that had launched our Mongolian adventure. In a journey filled with triumphs and challenges, this return felt like a full circle, albeit with a hint of irony that perfectly captured the spirit of our Mongolian escapade.
Day 24 – A Day of Airports and Anticipation
Today’s whirlwind journey began with an early flight from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, taking us through Incheon International Airport in Seoul, South Korea, for a transit. We then continued our journey to the bustling hub of Bangkok for a welcome overnight stay. The sights and sounds of the Thai capital offered a brief respite before our final leg to Laos. Although airport layovers can feel like a necessary pause in the adventure, they hold a particular charm for us. The quiet hum of announcements becomes a comforting soundtrack, and the air crackles with the anticipation of new experiences waiting just beyond the departure gates. Southeast Asia beckons, and with it, the promise of thrilling hikes and unforgettable moments. Laos, we’re ready to explore your wonders!
Access and Climb
Our guiding philosophy was simple: spot a mountain, and you climb it. However, the journey to the base of each peak was anything but straightforward. It was an odyssey through treacherous terrain – bogs, swamps, sandy deserts, and stone fields – all overcome in the pursuit of reaching our goals. We invested considerable time meticulously analyzing satellite images, dissecting every pixel in the hunt for car tracks left by previous expeditions. This meticulous strategy paid off, although it wasn’t without its challenges – occasionally, we found ourselves bogged down in mud or trapped in sand. Nevertheless, by following these elusive traces, we achieved our objective, reaching the base of every mountain we set our sights on.
Security
During my travels in Mongolia, I felt a strong sense of safety throughout my journey, encountering friendly and helpful people everywhere I went. Interactions with locals were consistently positive, with people always willing to help and offer friendly greetings. While it’s important to be aware of potential risks and follow travel advisories, my personal experience was filled with positive interactions and a strong sense of community.
Food
On our Mongolian adventure, self-catering was largely the norm. An initial major shopping spree in Zuunmod stocked us with essentials like local cheese, dried fruits, and canned goods. We were pleasantly surprised to discover that even the smaller villages we encountered had shops stocked with familiar staples. This easy access to basic groceries made food logistics a breeze, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the experience of the journey without worrying about finding our next meal. Additionally, all the hotels we stayed in offered restaurant options, while local restaurants outside our hotels provided opportunities to savor traditional dishes like buuz (steamed dumplings) and khorkhog (barbecued sheep). This combination of self-catering and occasional restaurant dining added a delightful variety to our Mongolian culinary experience.
Wheather
The weather, surprisingly, defied my expectations of bitter cold. Instead, it consistently provided a pleasant coolness, striking a perfect balance that was neither stifling nor frigid. We encountered a few brief instances of light rain, but these were hardly troublesome. Perhaps the most challenging aspect was driving under the vast, clear skies, especially in the rented car. Unfortunately, it lacked the comfort of air conditioning, which added a layer of discomfort on hot days. However, when it came to hiking in the mountains at higher altitudes, the conditions couldn’t have been more ideal. The cool air made our ascents comfortable and enjoyable. A unique weather pattern we observed was the strong winds that would pick up just before sunset. It was as if nature was putting on a show each evening, but as soon as the sun dipped below the horizon, calmness would return, ushering in tranquil nights. Indeed, it might be a coincidence, but the rhythm of the winds became a regular feature of our days, almost like nature’s own way of signalling the transition from day to night.
Communicaiton
Before venturing into Mongolia, we worried that communication would be our Achilles’ heel. We envisioned ourselves stranded in the vast, remote steppes, cut off from phone signals and the internet. To combat this fear, we rented a pricey satellite phone for a month, which thankfully proved unnecessary. Surprisingly, we found ourselves well-connected most of the time, with decent signal strength and surprisingly fast internet speeds. Even around mountain bases and summits, spotting a village in the distance often guaranteed internet access right from our tent! Another interesting observation was the strategic placement of yurts – they typically seemed to be erected wherever internet signals dared to venture boldly. Quite the progress of civilization, indeed! Our decision to purchase local prepaid SIM cards from two different operators at Ulaanbaatar airport proved to be a wise one. Whenever one operator’s signal dipped, switching to the other usually worked like a charm.
Money
In Ulaanbaatar, the convenience of using cards almost everywhere, even at traditional street markets, beautifully blurred the lines between modernity and tradition. However, venturing beyond the capital painted a contrasting picture. The dependency on Mongolia’s national currency, the tugrik, was absolute in these rural areas. Our attempts to use any other form of payment often hit frustrating roadblocks. This became a stark reality when we ran low on cash. Faced with the prospect of delaying our journey, we embarked on a two-day search for a willing money exchange. Finally, in a larger village Baruunbayan-Ullan, we found a bank that agreed to exchange our euros for tugriks. The process was slow, but ultimately successful. Interestingly, only a handful of the hotels we stayed at accepted card payments, highlighting the stark contrast between the modern, card-friendly environment of Ulaanbaatar and the cash-based preference in Mongolia’s more rural areas.
Birds
Ah, the birds in Mongolia! They were a constant and delightful presence, adding a vibrant and lively backdrop to our journey across the Mongolian steppes. Unlike the dense jungles where birdsong fills the air but sightings are rare, here in the vast, open landscape, spotting feathered friends was surprisingly easy. Their clear visibility and the ease of observation made our encounters with them a refreshing change, providing a unique and enjoyable aspect to our travels in this beautiful country.
Admittedly, with so many unknowns, I secretly held onto the ambitious goal of conquering five challenging peaks. However, I reminded myself that even reaching one or two would be a remarkable feat. To our delight, we surpassed expectations, summiting a remarkable eight peaks. This achievement called for a well-deserved celebration!
Our journey wasn’t without its setbacks. The treacherous terrain of mud and sand thwarted our attempt to reach the base of one mountain, forcing us to swiftly pivot to our backup plan. This led us to the summit of another exciting peak, proving that adaptability is key. Throughout our adventure, we also successfully climbed numerous other peaks, each offering its own unique challenge and rewarding experience.
Thanks
My heartfelt thanks go to Richard and Denise, who did an exceptional job planning our hikes, finding routes, and navigating the challenges of car rental. They truly made the trip possible. While due to unforeseen circumstances, they must postpone their journey to next year, I genuinely look forward to joining them in the steppes and tackling other Ultras together.
A big shout-out to Rob as well, for his patience and sage advice. His calm demeanor and thoughtful input significantly enhanced the journey.
Last but not least, my gratitude goes to Chengi. Not only did he pick me up from the airport, but he also embraced the challenge of climbing P600 with me, providing fantastic company and ongoing, enjoyable conversations over messenger.
A huge thank you to everyone!
| Peak | Altitude | Prominence ↓ | Isolation | Distance | Elevation Gain | Time |
| Altai | 96.9 km | 9206 m | 56h49 | |||
| Jargalant Khairkhan | 3,796 m | 2,353 m | 79.6 km | 19.0 km | 1,894 m | 11h30 |
| Tergun Bogd | 3,957 m | 1,979 m | 356.3 km | 14.1 km | 1,636 m | 10h05 |
| Bumbag Khairkhan Uul | 3,470 m | 1,806 m | 38.4 km | 27.2 km | 2,059 m | 12h55 |
| Hasgat Khairkhan Uul | 3,578 m | 1,749 m | 146.9 km | 7.6 km | 925 m | 6h00 |
| Myangan Yamaat | 3,620 m | 1,745 m | 106.8 km | 8.2 km | 881 m | 6h00 |
| Baatar Khairkhan | 3,984 m | 1,541 m | 71.6 km | 9.6 km | 953 m | 5h10 |
| Jast | 1,714 m | 249 m | 0.0- km | 1.8 km | 293 m | 1h15 |
| Bunchant | 1,702 m | 237 m | 0.0- km | 3.2 km | 143 m | 1h35 |
| Tariani Bogd | 1,952 m | 133 m | 0.0- km | 1.6 km | 117 m | 0h45 |
| Peak 2222m, Bayankhongor | 2,222 m | 67 m | 0.0- km | 1.0 km | 91 m | 0h25 |
| Peak 1774m, Taishir | 1,774 m | 66 m | 0.0- km | 0.8 km | 63 m | 0h15 |
| Peak 1622m, Jargalan | 1,622 m | 50 m | 0.0- km | 1.2 km | 81 m | 0h25 |
| Peak 1727m, Taishir | 1,727 m | 49 m | 0.0- km | 1.4 km | 31 m | 0h23 |
| Peak 2085m, Bayankhongor | 2,085 m | 47 m | 0.0- km | 0.2 km | 39 m | 0h06 |
| Gobi Desert Ranges | 37.9 km | 1775 m | 14h55 | |||
| Dund Sayhni Nuru | 2,830 m | 1,531 m | 225.0 km | 16.6 km | 941 m | 7h00 |
| Tsetseegün Uul | 2,268 m | 648 m | 0.0- km | 15.3 km | 602 m | 5h20 |
| Ich-Tevsh-Ula | 1,757 m | 202 m | 0.0- km | 3.3 km | 113 m | 1h15 |
| Peak 1158, Bulgan | 1,158 m | 60 m | 0.0- km | 1.4 km | 52 m | 0h40 |
| Peak 1156, Bulgan | 1,156 m | 51 m | 0.0- km | 1.3 km | 67 m | 0h40 |
| Hangay Mountains | 15.8 km | 1132 m | 9h16 | |||
| Otgon Tenger Uul | 4,010 m | 2,269 m | 320.0 km | 15.5 km | 1,118 m | 9h10 |
| Peak 2366m, Buyant | 2,366 m | 48 m | 0.0- km | 0.3 km | 14 m | 0h06 |
| 150.6 km hiked and 12113 m elevation gained in 81h00 | ||||||
